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Malindi

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The small town of Malindi to the north of Mombasa is at the centre of a strip of idyllic tropical beaches and resorts. Like Mombasa, it was an important Swahili settlement from the 14th century and was one of the few places on the east coast to welcome the Portuguese.

Today you can still see the stone cross erected by Vasco da Gama in January 1499 and the small Portuguese church nearby. It's not only Portuguese sailors who are welcome these days, but a great many tourists, who are drawn to Malindi's long beaches and coral reefs. Snorkelling and diving are excellent in the many nearby marine national parks, as well as game fishing and wind surfing. Malindi is known for its woodcarvers who make unique furniture, including traditional four-poster Lamu beds made from carved ebony: quite exquisite but hardly a convenient souvenir to take home!

Away from the beach and worth seeking out is the nearby lost town of Gedi: a deserted Swahili trading town hidden deep in the forests, whose ancient passages and crumbling walls tell of a long and mysterious past. It dates back to the 13th century but was abandoned in the early 17th century. The exact reason is not known, though it is assumed that the town was plundered and destroyed by unknown invaders in the 17th century, or otherwise that the sea receded and left the town high and dry. There's a small museum exhibiting ancient Arab and Chinese porcelain excavated from the ruins.

The coastal highway runs north of Malindi all the way to the island of Lamu and Kenya's northern frontier. Be warned though: this road is notorious for armed robberies, so if you are continuing to Lamu it's best to take the short hop by plane.






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