Most people visit the tiny African country of Malawi on the
way to somewhere else, not knowing very much about it. It’s
a poor, densely populated country with bad roads and a non-existent
infrastructure. It doesn’t have the great safari options
that East and southern Africa do. But travellers who stop
may be pleasantly surprised. Many stay a lot longer than expected.
For such a thin sliver of a country (no bigger in size than
England), Malawi offers a variety of attractions: lakes, mountains,
forests, game parks and villages, most of which are well off
the tourist trail. The main feature of the country and its
primary attraction is Lake Malawi, an enormous freshwater
inland sea. The Lake Malawi National Park is the world's first
freshwater park and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There are
over 550 species of fish, most of them unique to these waters.
A number of tourist resorts and hotels have been established
on the lakeshore. The more luxurious can be found on the southern
lakeshore while on the northern lakeshore are a number of
rustic resorts close to the traditional villages. They are
great places to enjoy watersports, such as diving and snorkelling
in the lake, or simply relaxing in a hammock on the beach.
There are five national parks in Malawi with some wildlife,
such as elephants, zebra, hippo and crocodile. Safaris
in Malawi are a fledgling industry and the parks are not yet geared
up for major game viewing. In fact, few Malawians have
ever had the chance to visit their national parks and many
have never seen some of the animals for which East Africa
is famous. There is, however, good hiking and trekking in
some of the parks, such as the Nyika Plateau National Park
in the north, where you can also go horse riding on the grassy
plains. Mount Mulanje, on Malawi's south-eastern border
with Mozambique, offers challenging treks to the summit.
Malawi is a good place to buy African curios at reasonable
prices and the craftsmen are very inventive. They are known
for their basketwork and there can be few other places in
the world where you can pick up a grass helicopter complete
with rotating blades or a Land Rover with a spare wheel made
out of grass. Malawi is best known for its wood carvings.
This is where the famous Malawi chair is made, a very popular
souvenir of Africa. The best place to buy one is at the curio
market in Lilongwe, the country’s tiny capital.
Describing themselves as ‘the friendliest people in
Africa’, all of the Malawian ethnic groups live harmoniously
together. Some Malawian elders attribute this to the 19th
century Scottish missionary, Dr. David Livingstone. He arrived
in Malawi in 1859 and encouraged tribal chiefs to work together
to end the slave trade. Today Malawi is a warm and welcoming
country that offers visitors great scenery, and some of the
friendliest villagers in all of Africa. There is also a refreshingly
relaxed and laid-back atmosphere as most people spend their
time working on the land or fishing in the lake. The pace
of life in Malawi is timeless. The cries of fish eagles, the
fishermen in dugouts silhouetted against the evening skies,
and the warm, sleepy atmosphere make it impossible not to
relax. If you get the chance to sit on the beach and watch
the sun sink into Lake Malawi as fisherman return to shore
with the day's catch, you'll understand what we mean. Malawi
makes a great stand-alone destination but also combines with
Zambia to which it is well connected. Zambia, with its vast
parks and wild nature, makes a wonderful contrast to the more
gentle Malawi. |
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Malawi was once called Maravi, meaning ‘reflected light’. Perhaps this referred to the brilliant glitter on Lake Malawi
as the sun shines on it. Throughout history, people have been
attracted to the region by its stable climate, regular rainfall
and the ample supply of fish in the lake. People lived undisturbed
in kingdoms governed by chiefs, before Arab and Portuguese
slave traders penetrated central Africa and caused havoc in
the 18th century. Dr David Livingstone
first set eyes on the great lake in 1859. By 1875
the Scottish Presbyterian Church had founded its first mission
at Cape MaClear, followed by more European settlers who began
to farm the land. With the growth of commerce and expanding
plantations, Malawians migrated towards the settlers’ farms in search of work, and towns and villages were established.
Colonial domination became inevitable, and in 1891 the British
declared the country the British Protectorate of Nyasaland.
In 1953 the British federated Nyasaland with Northern and
Southern Rhodesia (now Zambia and Zimbabwe). Nyasaland
seceded in 1963, following elections won by Dr Hastings
Banda’s Malawi Congress Party. Nyasaland became independent
from Britain in 1964 and was renamed Malawi. Two years
later Dr Banda declared it a republic and a one-party state.
His regime was harsh and by 1971 he had declared himself
President for Life. Any opponents of his government
were thrown in jail or out of the country. His policies
were off the wall: it was against the law for men
to have long hair and for women to wear anything but skirts.
Banda’s foreign policy also attracted widespread criticism:
he supported the apartheid regime in South Africa - the only
black-ruled African state to do so. This cosy relationship
with South Africa funded the construction of the new capital,
Lilongwe (the capital had previously been at Blantyre), which opened
for business in 1975.
In 1992 Malawi experienced acute shortages of food because of poor harvests affected by drought and the need to provide food for some one million refugees
who had fled the war in Mozambique. People demanded change,
and by 1993, the ailing Banda was forced to concede. A
referendum in June endorsed the transition to a multi-party
democracy with a new constitution. Elections were held in
1994. They were won by Dr Bakili Muluzi while Banda was recovering
from brain surgery in South Africa. When he returned to
Malawi, the ageing Banda and his chief henchman, the much-hated
and feared John Tembo, were put on trial for their alleged
role in the 1983 murders of four opposition politicians.
But the trial was inconclusive upon Banda’s death
in 1997. Muluzi won a second term in office in the 1999
election.
Malawi is one of the poorest counties on earth,
and most of the ten million people rely on subsistence farming
or fishing to survive. Drought and poor harvests in recent
years have led to shortages in maize, the country’s
staple food. Malawi often has to look south to the richer
nations for food aid. Despite this, the Malawian people
are generally happy and friendly, and any traveller to Malawi
will be made to feel most welcome.
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Malawi is a landlocked country bordered by Tanzania, Zambia
and Mozambique, but it’s not short of water thanks to
Lake Malawi - the world’s ninth largest lake. Lake Malawi dominates
the whole country. It is the county's centrepiece. It's like an
inland sea with endless beaches, enclosed by sheer mountains - undeniably the focal point for travellers to this country.
Malawi is a small, long, skinny country approximately 850km
long and 160km wide. It lies at the southern end of the Great
Rift Valley. Lake Malawi is the southernmost lake in the series
of lakes marking the valley's route south from the Red Sea.
The entire country covers an area of just 118 000 sq km, making
it slightly smaller than England. Malawi has a thickly forested
high central plateau with a mountainous spine rising to 2 600
metres. The highest point is Mount Mulanje in the south east,
which rises to over 3 200 metres. The countryside is mainly
rough scrub with a surprising lack of trees. Most have been chopped down for firewood and to make charcoal,
and they haven’t been replaced. Some, such as the indigenous
ebony trees, are chopped down to make wooden souvenirs –
worth thinking about when you’re buying a Malawian chair.
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Malawi promotes itself as the ‘warm heart of Africa’,
which is mostly true. It has a subtropical climate and clear
sunny days most of the year round. Generally, the highlands
are cooler and wetter, while the low lying regions are hotter
and more humid. Winter (May to July) is dry and nights can
get chilly, particularly in the highlands. During the driest
months of September and October, high winds sometimes create
dust storms. The rainy season runs from November to March
and there can be floods. It’s common for rivers
to burst their banks and for bridges and roads to get washed away.
No matter when you visit, take clothes to cover up in the
evening: all of Malawi is a high risk malaria zone,
and you need long sleeves and trousers to ward off mosquitoes
at night.
The people in Malawi are all of Bantu origin. Small populations of Asians and Europeans live
in Lilongwe and Blantyre. There are many different
languages and dialects, but the Chewa is the dominant group
and their language, called Chichewa, is the common national
tongue. Though English is the official language and is very
widely spoken, Malawians love to hear visitors speak Chichewa,
so here are some common words and phrases that you can try
out. One English name practically all Malawian children know
is Chuck Norris. They are avid kung fu
fans and Chuck Norris movies are played regularly at roadside
video stalls.
• How are you? – muli bwanji?
• I am fine - ndiri bwino
• thank you - zikomo
• food - chakudya
• water - madzi
• beer - mowa
• go well, goodbye - pitani bwino
• money – ndalama
• hello - moni
• no, I don’t want anything – sinidkufuna
chilichonse
• ndalama zingati ? - How much ?
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START & FINISH
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Lilongwe, capital of Malawi
and the entry point en route to other Malawi destinations and national parks.
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