Namibia is a country of extremes. It features a brutally hot
climate, arid grasslands and barren red-sand deserts and is
like no other part of Africa. It’s also
a country of compelling beauty and wide horizons that offer
a feeling of unconfined space, making this a hugely attractive
travel destination. Namibia is one of the driest regions in
Africa and gets very little rain. The country is dominated
by the brooding and desolate Namib Desert. The Namib has the highest
sand dunes in the world. They march determinedly towards the
sea in a dune field 300km wide. A Namibia must-do is to climb
a dune at Sossusvlei in the Namib Naukluft National Park,
the fourth largest national park in the world. The Namib is
said to be the oldest desert in the world, based on the fact
that the flora, fauna and insects are so adapted to their
environment - more so than anywhere else on the planet. For this to be so,
the evolutionary process must have started here long before
it started in deserts elsewhere.
In contrast, hardly anything
survives on the stark and inhospitable Skeleton Coast, where
both ancient and modern seafarers have met their sticky end. Seals seem to like it well enough, though, and some 100 000
make their home on the same rock at Cape Cross. Inland, Damaraland
is well worth exploring for its beautiful scenery: tortured
rock, open gravel plains and a possible encounter with an
elusive desert elephant. Sunsets belong to Namibia. Another
must-do is to watch the sun drop over the immense Fish River
Canyon, the second largest canyon in the world after only
the Grand Canyon. Jutting eastward into Angola, Zambia and
Botswana, the finger-like Caprivi Strip is nothing like these
arid landscapes. It is something of an oasis, well-watered
and forested, compared to the rest of the country.
The Etosha National Park is dominated by the Etosha Pan
that was once filled with water 100 000 years ago. Now Etosha
shimmers with mirages, yet this dry area is home to 3 000
species of birds and mammals that survive on the magical
waterholes scattered throughout the park. Highlights here
are watching rhino or elephant drinking at a waterhole at
night, or spotting cheetah stalk through the short grass on the
plains. Namibia is home to the largest population of cheetah
still in existence and concerted efforts are being made
to preserve the species in the wild.
Originally inhabited by Bushmen, and later colonized by
the Germans, now-independent Namibia retains elements of
its colonial past. The German influence - their language,
architecture and sense of structure - is still evident,
particularly in the country's superior infrastructure. Even
in its restaurants you won't have a problem finding
an apple strudel or a flagon of beer. Windhoek (meaning
windy corner) is the nation's modern capital. Its lacy
network of small streets diffuses the gusts sweeping in
off the Kalahari. But it is the coastal town of Swakopmund
that is Namibia’s most atmospheric and interesting
town. It’s also the location of a number of adventure
activities from sandboarding to skydiving. It
competes with Victoria Falls as adrenalin capital of Africa.
Namibia is one of the least densely populated countries
in the world. Just fewer than 2 million people live in an
area of approx. 824 000 sq km – that’s around
two people per sq km. But the diversity of its people creates
a rich blend of cultures and traditions. The awesome looking
Himba in the north, with their gleaming red-ochre skin and
elaborately braided hair, still live their original Stone
Age existence. In Bushmanland the old hunter-gather traditions
of the San, the original inhabitants of southern African,
are still being preserved.
Namibia is a very tourist friendly country. It boasts clean,
modern cities, a fully developed infrastructure, quality
hotels and restaurants and most importantly, friendly people.
It is Africa for beginners, and travelling here is safe
and hassle-free. Since it only gained independence in 1990,
it also has one of the world’s newest tourism industries
and is the first country in the world to include protection
of the environment and sustainable utilisation of wildlife
in its constitution.
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The first people to inhabit what is now Namibia were the San
people, otherwise known as the Bushmen. They are hunter gatherers
who roamed southern Africa’s plains for thousands of
years. There’s still a population of around 27 000 living
in Botswana and Namibia. You’re likely to see
them around the northern town of Rundu, though in the modern
world they are struggling to retain their traditional lifestyle.
The Namas and the Damaras came from the north from the 12th
century, pushing the Bushmen into the Kalahari Desert. They were followed
by the Owambos and the Herero from the 14th century, and by the
Ovambo in the early 19th century. Several kingdoms sprouted
on both sides of the Kunene River.
The first European to arrive
was a Portuguese sailor, Diogo Cao, who briefly landed
at Cape Cross in 1486. A few hundred years later, whilst the
rest of the African continent was being carved up by the colonists,
Namibia's treacherous coastline and the inhospitable Namib
Desert constituted a formidable barrier. It effectively staved
off potential colonisers until the mid-19th century. German
missionaries arrived in the 1840s and set about building
carbon-copy settlements of their towns back home and introducing
other idiosyncrasies such as clothing the native people in
Victorian dress. Today Herero ladies can still be seen
in the villages dressed in antiquated dresses, bustles, frills
and all.
Meanwhile in 1878, the British annexed the natural
deep harbour of Walvis Bay. The area was incorporated into
the Cape of Good Hope in 1884. A German trader, Adolf Luderitz,
claimed the surrounding region. Negotiations between the
British and the Germans resulted in Germany controlling the
whole coastal region, excluding Walvis Bay, which remained in
British hands. The German protectorate of South West Africa
was established 1894, after a bizarre agreement. The British
allowed Germany to add the Caprivi Strip to its territories
(and thus get access to the Zambezi River) in exchange for
Zanzibar and Heligoland, a remote island in the North
Sea.
The next three decades of German rule were marked by bloody
conflicts between the Europeans and the Africans, mainly the
Herero. Between 1904 and 1907 around 60 000 local people
were killed, many were ruthlessly driven into the Kalahari Desert
to die, and Germany introduced racial segregation. In 1908
diamonds were discovered near the coast, bringing a stampede
of Europeans to the newly established diamond towns such as
Lüderitz, which for a few years in the 1920s was the wealthiest
town in the world. After Germany's defeat in World War I,
South West Africa was handed over to South Africa who ruled
it until independence in 1990. For a long time South Africa saw it as
the fifth and wealthiest province in their country. South
Africa instituted some Apartheid-inspired laws, moved coloureds
and blacks into townships and gave the arable land to the
whites.
After World War II the United Nations made repeated attempts
to persuade South Africa to relinquish its power over the
territory but South Africa refused and continued to govern
it from Pretoria. Then in the early 1960s, black Namibians
united under the banner of the South West Africa People's
Organization (SWAPO) to fight for their independence. Over the next two decades they used guerrilla warfare against South
African targets, infiltrating the territory from secret bases
in Zambia and southern Angola. Throughout the 1970s and early
80s, the UN continued to pledge that South West Africa
was to become an independent Namibia, reaffirmed by a ruling
by the International Court of Justice in 1971. SWAPO
used more underground methods of demonstration. But South
Africa only dug its heels in further. In 1977 South Africa adopted a
new constitution that upheld apartheid policies and established
10 African homelands, tying Namibia even more closely to South
Africa. Meanwhile SWAPO stepped up its guerrilla activities
and managed to take control of parts of the north.
Finally, after another decade or so of badgering from the
UN and international community, South Africa conceded and
agreed to hand over government to an independent Namibia.
Elections were held in November 1989, with SWAPO led by Sam
Nujoma taking 57% of the votes. Namibia achieved independence
in March 1990. South Africa, however, did manage briefly to
hang on to the important deepwater port of Walvis Bay. This
was only yielded to Namibia in 1994. While continuing to be
economically dependent on South Africa (especially for foodstuffs),
Namibia is better off than many other countries in the region,
particularly because of its diamond wealth. President Nujoma
has remained president, but his policies have been criticized
in recent years. He conveniently changed the constitution
enabling him to run for a third (and possibly future fourth)
term and has introduced radical land policies similar to Zimbabwe
where white-owned farmland is to be reverted back to black
ownership.
Today Namibia is a peaceful country and its tourism
industry, being only just over a decade old, is well organised
and forward thinking. It’s one of the few African countries
to promote eco-tourism, and there are many initiatives that
both care for the environment and involve local people.
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Exposed to the mercy of the elements, the stark Namibian landscape
is a memorable image for any visitor to the country, particularly
for those visiting the African continent for the first time.
Namibia covers 824 268 sq km and is situated on the south-western
Atlantic coast. It is wedged between South Africa to the south,
Angola to the north, and Botswana to the east. It also touches
on Zambia where the skinny Caprivi Strip ends at the Zambezi
River. The 49 000 sq km Namib-Naukluft National Park, that
runs along the entire Atlantic coast, is a unique geological
feature. The Namib Desert, the oldest desert on earth and
the richest source of diamonds on the planet, is famous for
its vast field of towering red dunes that actively march towards
the sea and the eerie and barren Skeleton Coast. Inland, the
fertile central plateau hosts the bulk of the country's settlements.
Windhoek, the capital, and the only city of any size, is
located smack in the middle of the country. In the north lies
the salty Etosha Pan, and thanks to some natural and man-made
waterholes this area remains sufficiently fertile to support
great herds of game in the Etosha National Park. The fringes
of the bone-dry Kalahari Desert touch Namibia’s eastern
borders. Five rivers, the Okavango, the Mashi, the Zambezi,
the Kunene and the Orange all flow along the country's perimeters,
though the interior has very little permanent surface water. |
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Namibia can be visited all year round as the climate is continually
hot and dry, though the summer months of December to March
can be brutal with temperatures creeping over the forties.
With 300 sunny days per year, Namibia is definitely a sunny
country, and the central, southern and coastal areas constitute
some of the most arid landscapes south of the Sahara. Sometimes
it has experienced periods of extreme dryness, such as the
crippling drought of the early 1990s, and every year the desert
greedily claims more of Namibia's arable land. As
with all desert regions, days are hot while nights are generally
cool. In winter months, particularly July, nights get
very cold with frosts, so be prepared for some extreme weather.
Most of the rain falls between February and March, but there’s
so little it shouldn’t hamper any visit to the country.
The only thing likely to happen is that the normally dry riverbeds
that crisscross the dirt roads fill with water, and the game
in Etosha is more dispersed, because the animals do not have to
rely on the water holes. Temperatures along the coast are
cooled by the cold Benguela Current. This reduces rainfall
and causes the thick fog that frequently shrouds Swakopmund
and the Skeleton Coast, usually dissolving around midday.
Swakopmund only gets an average of 50 mm of rain a year. The town does not have any drains or infrastructure to deal
with rainwater, so if it does rain heavily, it floods.
Namibia has an ethnically diverse population. It includes
the Bantu-speaking Ovambo, Kavango, and Herero, the Damara,
the San (Bushmen), and whites of South African, German and
British descent. English is the official language, but most
people speak Afrikaans imported from South Africa, and a few
speak German. There are more than 11 indigenous languages,
with the most common being Oshiwambo. About 50% or one
million people in Namibia speak it. Here are a few words of both
Oshiwambo and Afrikaans for you to try out. As with anywhere
in Africa, the local people will be delighted that you have
made the effort to learn a few words of their language.
Oshiwambo
• How are you (male)? - U hala po Tate?
• How are you (female)? - U hala po Meme?
• Good morning - Owa lala po nawa
• Good afternoon - Wuhala po?
• What’s up? - Ongini?
• Thank you – Tangi
• Please – Kwathandje
• Goodbye (see you later) - Kaliipo nawa
• I don’t speak your language - Iihandi popi elakalyoye
Afrikaans
• How are you? – Hoe gaan dit?
• Very good – Baie goed
• Thanks – dankie
• Yes – Ja
• No – Nee
• Please - Asseblief
• What is your name? – Wat is jou naam?
• How many/much? – Hoeveel?
• Where is…? - Waar is…?
• Goodbye – Totsiens
• Do you speak…? – Praat u…?
• I only understand a little Afrikaans – Ek verstaan
net ‘n bietjie Afrikaans |
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START
& FINISH
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Swakopmund, the entry point
en route to other Namibian destinations and national parks. |
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