Affectionately nicknamed the Mother City,
Cape Town has been rated one of the top destinations in the
world. The city lies at the northern end of the Cape Peninsula,
a 75km-long tail of mountains ending at the Cape of Good
Hope. Nestled at the foot of the spectacular Table Mountain -
South Africa’s most famous landmark - Cape Town is one
of the few cities in the world that lies entirely within a
national park. Drive 15 minutes in any direction and lose
yourself in stunning landscapes of 18th-century Cape Dutch
manors, historic wineries and white-sand beaches backed by
sheer mountains.
Table Mountain dominates the city in a way that is difficult to imagine until you visit. If you
are travelling around the peninsula and lose sight of the
mountain, then either it's cloudy or you are in Johannesburg!
The best view is from Blouberg Beach, where you can get a
postcard-perfect photo of Table Mountain surrounded by the
city and sparkling ocean. In the afternoon creeping fingers
of clouds spill over the mountain-top creating the famous tablecloth. At night the sheer cliffs are dramatically lit up for
a different view. You can climb the mountain or ride the cable car to the
top for some gob-smacking views of the city.
Originally home to the nomadic Khoi people for at least 30
000 years, the Cape Peninsula was first settled in 1652 by
Dutch sailors. In 1795 it became a British colony. The city
was the first port of call for many European, Indian, South
East Asian and Madagascan settlers. As these interspersed
with the local Khoi and Xhosa, the city became a melting
pot of cultures, religions, styles and flavours. The city
has a reputation for being the most welcoming city in South
Africa. Capetonians are proud of their easygoing spirit - jokingly
known as the ‘Cape coma’ by people in more formal
Johannesburg. Capetonians also relish their social life. There are limitless restaurants, bars, nightclubs, theatres,
exhibitions, flea markets and world-class shopping centres.
But despite its outstanding natural beauty and cosmopolitan
atmosphere, Cape Town is still surrounded by the ever-visible
legacy of Apartheid. The first glimpse of the city coming
from the airport is a stretch of rambling townships. They are a hangover from
the days when the Apartheid government forced the black population
to live in poverty. A tour of these areas is recommended for
a glimpse of the old South Africa, and to learn about the enormous
challenges facing the new one. So is a tour of Robben Island,
once the prison where Nelson Mandela was sent during his 27
years of incarceration. It is reached by a ferry that also offers
outstanding views from the ocean of the city and mountain.
With a splendid national park on the doorstep and a near-perfect
climate, there’s a wide range of outdoor activities
on offer in Cape Town: hiking, biking, sailing, fishing,
surfing, diving, and more extreme adventures like abseiling,
kloofing and sandboarding. The Cape Town beaches are legendary
- you can spend hours on them soaking up the sun. On impossibly trendy Camps Bay beach, you can also enjoy a spot of people
watching. The city centre has some fine museums including
the thought-provoking District Six Museum. The famous
V&A Waterfront receives over 20 million visitors
a year and is a must for great shopping and eating.
The Cape Peninsula can be explored on a day tour that includes
visits to seal and penguin colonies. A day trip to the
winelands around Stellenbosch and Paarl is a fun way to explore
the magnificent wine estates and raise a toast to good South
African wine. Kirstenbosch is a beautiful botanical garden
alive with colourful plants and manicured lawns under
the shadow of Table Mountain. With all these
great locations, it’s no wonder that in summer Cape
Town is flooded by international film crews, fashion shoots,
music videos and commercial filming, all lured by the exotic
scenery, a world-class infrastructure and a seemingly endless
supply of drop-dead gorgeous models and extras.
With plenty
of interesting sightseeing, contemporary museums, beautiful
places and a wide range of tours and activities, you won’t
be short of something to see or do in the Mother City.
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Seasons in Cape Town are quite
straightforward. Winter is from July to August and is relatively
cold whereas summer, November to March, is hot.
Be warned though - winters in Cape Town have started to become
warmer, clearer and drier. So if you're planning
on travelling at this time, you should consider packing a
pair of shorts just in case you land up at the beach.
Temperatures range between 7-18°C in winter and, like
Europe, the days are shorter. Summer temperatures can reach
up to 35°C though the Cape Doctor, a south easterly
wind, generally keeps things bearable.
Cape Town's weather is notorious for changing several times
in one day and be quite different on one side of the mountain
to the other. We suggest you wear layers. Cape Town's busiest
time is from Christmas to late January, which is when the
weather is at its best. It also coincides with local
school holidays. Low season is in the depths of the rainy winter,
June to August. This is not the best time to visit. If
you are here then, take the cable car up Table Mountain as
soon as the cloud lifts - it could be days before it’s
clear again. Easter and other school holidays are also busy
times.
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The pride of all Capetonians,
and the city’s most recognisable feature, is Table Mountain. It offers a beautiful backdrop to the city, as well as spectacular
views from its summit. Reach the top on foot by climbing
one of the many paths from the lower cableway station. It
should take about three hours. Or you can take the easy option and
ride the revolving cable car. The more sedate can wander
around and enjoy the views whilst the adventurous can try
abseiling. This has got to be one of the most scenic abseils
in the world and it’s a huge adrenalin rush to be
suspended over Cape Town on a length of rope.
Robben Island is a living museum and conservation area
11 km off the coast of Cape Town. It was formerly the
prison where Nelson Mandela was incarcerated for 27 years.
The Robben Island ferry whisks you across. Once on the
island you are driven around in an old prison bus and then go on
a guided tour of the prison itself (it includes a glimpse
Mandela’s ridiculously small cell). It’s a good
opportunity for gaining an understanding of South Africa’s
very recent past.
The N2 highway, connecting Cape Town International Airport
with the city, is lined with townships consisting of densely
packed shacks and buildings. During the turbulent days of
the apartheid government, these were no-go areas, but today
a township tour is becoming a must for the Cape Town visitor.
A guide, often a resident, will take you around to meet
the locals and experience colourful township life. There
is also the chance to have a drink and a game of pool with
the locals at one of the many shebeens, informal
pubs. Many tours include a visit to the thought-provoking
District Six Museum, a commemoration of the Cape Town suburb
that was razed to the ground by the Apartheid government.
Cape Town boasts some of the most beautiful and unspoilt
beaches in the world. Some of the best beaches on the Atlantic
seaboard include Cliftons first through to fourth beaches, the
impossibly trendy Camps Bay and the quieter Llandudno. On
the False Bay side, enjoy slightly less dramatic scenery
but warmer water. Top beaches for swimming on this side
of the Peninsula include Noordhoek, Muizenberg, Kalk Bay,
Fish Hoek and Simonstown.
Sample some of the best wines in the world on a wine tour.
Be warned - after drinking wine in the sun all day,
things can get rather messy! The wine estates around Stellenbosch
and Paarl are picture-perfect country settings of mountains,
valleys, lakes and historic architecture. Your guide will
tell you something about the different types of wine and fermenting
processes, and you’ll get to sample some wines unique
to South Africa, such as Pinotage and Shiraz, in wonderful
garden surroundings.
Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens are some of the finest gardens
in Africa. They are the perfect location for a lazy stroll
on a sunny afternoon. The vast manicured lawns and lovely
gardens are sheltered on the eastern slopes of Table Mountain,
and the indigenous gardens delight botanists and nature
lovers from around the world. On summer evenings there are
frequent concerts with performances from jazz and classical
to Ronan Keating. It's a great spot to stretch
out on the grass, open a bottle of wine and listen to some
vibes in fabulous scenery.
Another must in Cape Town is a Peninsula Tour. Cape
Point at the tip of Africa is one of the greatest landmarks
in the world. Immerse yourself in the drama of a rugged
coastline, untouched, pristine sandy beaches and hidden
coves. On the way, at Hout Bay, you can take a trip out to Seal
Island to see the colony of Cape fur seals, who spend their
days lolling on the rocks, barking at each other or slipping
into the sea for a spot of deep sea fishing. The tour continues
along the dramatic Chapman’s Peak Drive where the
road is literally chiselled into the mountainside. At the
Cape Peninsula National Park you climb up to Cape Point for
breathtaking views of the pounding ocean on the rocks below
or you hike across the rugged terrain to the peaceful beach
at the Cape of Good Hope. On the way back to Cape Town there
is the opportunity to visit the penguin colony at Boulders
Beach where a boardwalk allows you to watch the penguins
staring straight back at you.
Visit the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront for great shopping,
eating and drinking in a teeming maritime environment. From
here you can catch the ferry to Robben Island, take a helicopter
flip over Table Mountain or a boat cruise around the harbour
or beyond. There are some talented street performers; the
amphitheatre often hosts live entertainment; and the Waterfront
is host to a variety of craft shows and exhibitions. It’s
also the location of the excellent Two Oceans Aquarium. Its spectacular giant fish tanks allow you to eye a huge
manta ray or a great white shark. You can even dive with
the sharks if you dare! |
Cape Town International Airport
is approximately 17km from the city centre. More than a dozen
international airlines and several local ones arrive at and depart
from this busy airport day and night.
Direct flights from Europe depart every evening and arrive
every morning. Cape Town is well connected to other countries
in southern Africa. There are constant connections with Johannesburg,
which is the hub airport for southern Africa with good connections
to the rest of the world.
The new Cape Town International Airport is one of the best
on the planet with convenient modern facilities. To get from
the airport into the city it’s best to prearrange an
airport shuttle or turn up at the shuttle desks on arrival. This is much cheaper than a taxi. Expect to pay around US$15
for a transfer into town. There is no public transport from
the airport.
Arriving in Cape Town by road is simple enough and there are
good bus and train connections to the rest of the country
and beyond. The most useful of these is the Baz Bus, a hop-on hop-off service that runs along the coast between Cape
Town and Durban and between Durban and Johannesburg via the Drakensberg
and Swaziland. |
If you're in the city itself,
you'll find walking about the easiest and most pleasant way
to see the central sights such as the museums. But for
other attractions, Cape Town is a city that is fairly spread
out. You’ll probably need some form of transport
other than your legs to get around.
Public transport in Cape Town, in minibus
taxis and Golden Arrow municipal buses, is the cheapest option. Unlike other cities
in South Africa, these can be used safely between the city
centre and the Atlantic Seaboard where many of the best beaches
are located. Public buses also link the city centre with the
V&A Waterfront.
Cheap and fun, Rikki's are Asian-style motorized tuk-tuks
that take up to nine people. They operate around the centre
and Camps Bay. Naturally they go via all the places the other
people in the back want to get to too, so they’re not
always the fastest way to get around.
Transfer companies can shuttle you to and from the airport,
as well as driving you to some of the more hard to reach destinations,
such as Kirstenbosch.
Private cabs are not cheap but are the safest bet after dark.
Most metered taxis are Toyota Ventures and seat up to 8-9
people, so try to get a group together. These cannot be hailed
on the street but hotels and restaurants will phone
for one on your behalf.
Rail links exist to all major Cape Town destinations. This is not always the safest option, especially after dark.
Hiring a car is a good option, as it allows you to discover
the city at your own pace and to do day trips around
Cape Town. Driving or parking in Cape Town is not too challenging
and car rental rates are very reasonable when sharing the
costs. Healthy competition between the hire car companies
also keeps rates low. It's sometimes also possible to return
a car picked up in Cape Town in another city, or vice versa. |
Some travellers complain when
they get mugged in Cape Town after surviving Johannesburg
or other parts of southern or east Africa unscathed. This
is often just because they have let their guard down.
Cape Town also suffers from isolated incidents of robbery
and scams, so remain vigilant despite the beautiful surroundings
and western atmosphere. Safety in the city centre has vastly
improved thanks to the Central City Improvement Project.
CCTV cameras have recently been mounted on many street corners and there are
extra police and security.
Unlike Johannesburg, downtown Cape Town is reasonably safe
to walk around, though catching taxis at night is still advised.
Nonetheless, visitors should take the precautions they would
in any major city. Avoid carrying large sums of cash,
having cameras or video cameras loose, and leaving belongings
unattended. In general, adhere to advice on where to go
after dark.
If you are driving, never stop on a highway if you can help it, and
don't leave anything in your car. You'd be surprised what
people will steal. Take special precautions at lonely lookout
points at dusk or after dark, such as the car park at the top
of Lion’s Head or on the beach.
Street children and beggars may approach you for a handout.
If you give them cash it could be used for something more
sinister, so rather give them food. |
There are banks all over Cape
Town that will exchange cash and traveller’s cheques
and there are plenty of ATMs. Always go into a bank where there is a
security guard to use an ATM. There are problems with people
coming up behind you at streetside ATMs who try to see what
code you punch in and then swipe your card.
Outside banking hours there are bureaux de change at the
Waterfront and other shopping malls that have extended hours
and are open on Saturday afternoons and all day on Sundays. Some
hotels and backpackers will also exchange money after hours at reasonable rates. |
The choice is limitless in
Cape Town, which is renowned for its excellent restaurants,
bars and nightclubs. Start with deciding what you want to
eat. Cape Town’s restaurants offer every imaginable
choice of world foods. Fresh seafood is a specialty and there’s
nothing better than eating crayfish or oysters overlooking
the ocean where dolphins and whales frolic.
South Africa has the cheapest sushi in the world, prepared by
traditional Japanese chefs. Cape Malay cuisine is unique to
Cape Town, so try a spicy curry or potjie cooked in a cast
iron pot. You can have a sizzling Thai dinner steeped in fragrant
lemongrass and coconut, beneath an illuminated Table Mountain.
Fine dining and first-class wine is found at the restaurants
on many of the region's acclaimed wine estates. African food
is well represented and there are several restaurants decked
out in an African theme with game meat on the menu - often
accompanied by a show of traditional dancing. If you’ve
been craving a Big Mac or a bucket of chicken throughout your
African travels, the fast food joints are all here too. It
is possible to eat and drink exceptionally well for US$15-20
a head, though eating places at the more touristy spots such
as the Waterfront will be a little more expensive than elsewhere.
Most restaurants pride themselves on carefully chosen wine
lists, but you can take along a bottle of your own for
a small corkage fee.
Cape Town is a truly cosmopolitan city, embracing cuisine
from the Mediterranean, the Far East, the Americas and the
hearty flavours of South Africa.
When Cape Town dims her lights after dinner, enjoy the
numerous nightclubs, wine-bars, live music pubs and cocktail
lounges, and party on well into the night. The Waterfront,
Sea Point, Camps Bay, Observatory and Long Street buzz until
the early hours. |
South Africa is the place to
catch up on email and empty that inbox. Internet access is
fast, reliable and cheap, and some cyber cafes are very comfortable
places to while away a few hours with a cappuccino or a cocktail.
Expect to pay around US$3 per hour.
There are a few internet joints along Long Street in the city
centre and a grand total of 12 cafes along Main Road in Sea
Point. All backpacker’s hostels provide internet access
well into the night. Coin and card phones are everywhere.
The cheapest card to buy is a World Call Card that has reduced
rates for international calls.
Post offices are everywhere but don’t send anything
too valuable by regular post as things have been known to go
missing. |
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