Climbing Kilimanjaro
is on many people’s list of lifetime achievements. Around
22 000 climbers set out each year to conquer it, making it the most
climbed mountain in the world. Few things can compete with standing
at the top of Kilimanjaro and gazing at the African continent - it’s a life-changing experience. In 1889 the first
European to climb the mountain was the German explorer Hans Meyer. It took him
six weeks to reach the summit, but these days the treks last 5-8
days and porters are available to carry your gear. In 1993 a Brazilian,
Mozart Catão, established the speed record by going up and
down the mountain in 17 hours 30 minutes. More recently in 2003,
a member of the Extreme Ironing Bureau (people who do extreme sports
with an iron and ironing board) climbed to the top of Kili, took
off his clothes and ironed them!
To use the word ‘climber’
is not technically correct, as none of the routes require mountaineering
skills, specialized equipment or even previous experience. Kili
is the highest mountain in the world that you can simply walk up.
With adequate preparation, any reasonably fit person over the
age of 12 can do it. The oldest person to date was 87.
Despite this, hiking to the ‘Roof of Africa’ is physically
and mentally demanding and should not be underestimated. As many
as 40% of those who attempt the climb never make it to the top because
of altitude sickness. This can set in at above 3 000 metres when
climbers experience a loss of appetite, nausea and headaches.
There’s no prior indication as to who might suffer from altitude
sickness (fitness, age and experience are irrelevant) and the only
cure is an immediate descent to a lower altitude.
There are several well-marked hiking routes leading to the summit
and they are graded by difficulty. The most popular and the easiest is the
34km 5-6 day Marangu route on the east side of the mountain. Approximately 11 000 people climb that way each year. This is the only route
that provides comfortable sleeping huts, equipped with beds and
mattresses, and a small shop at every campsite. The 6-7 day Machame
Route is probably the most scenic route to the top but it’s
physically more challenging than the Marangu route. The day walks
are longer and steeper and accommodation is in tents. The Umbwe,
Machame, Shira and Rongai routes are all one-way ascents and are
more challenging. Climbers descend using the Marangu or Mweka
routes. On any of the routes, the last slog up the mountain is hard
and you make the final ascent just after midnight in subzero temperatures
to get to Uhuru Peak at the top for sunrise. At the top, exhaustion
fades away as the sun rises over the ‘Roof of Africa’
and opens up to unbelievable views of the plains below. Kili can
be climbed at any time of year, but the rainy season
makes the forest more slippery and the summit may be blocked by
snow. Be prepared for climatic extremes: from rain in the forest,
intense sun in the alpine desert and freezing temperatures at the
summit. It’s essential to have warm clothes and a good sleeping
bag.
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