Overview
Uganda straddles the Equator between the mighty rain forests
of the Congo Basin and the vast savannah of East Africa. It’s
a place of shimmering lakes, lofty mountains and mysterious
forests. Ugandans refer to their country as the ‘Pearl of
Africa’ – a phrase originally coined by Winston Churchill
– and it’s easy to see why. For a little country no bigger
than Britain, it’s got some of Africa’s major attractions.
It is bordered by the fabled snow-capped Rwenzori ‘Mountains
of the Moon’, a proclaimed World Heritage Site. It contains
four of Africa's seven Great Lakes, one of which - Lake Victoria -
is the second largest body of fresh water in the world. It’s
the source of the Nile at Jinja where this mighty river begins
its great journey north. It is home to over 1 000 species
of birds, making Uganda the richest birding destination on
the continent, and it has the greatest variety of primates
anywhere in Africa, including chimpanzees and the highly endangered
mountain gorilla.
Uganda has such an abundance of natural resources that, in
the 1960's, the country was widely regarded as Africa's premier
safari destination. But a lengthy civil war put a stop to
that. During the war Uganda lost many of its animals and her
game parks were destroyed. 15 000 elephants were slaughtered
in Murchison Falls National Park alone. Uganda has had a turbulent
history, and during the 1960-70s was regarded as a place of
terror where power-mad dictators ran amok, leaving the country
they pretended to govern shattered, broke, and with a massive
loss of life - both human and animal. Only a decade ago, the
buildings of the capital city Kampala were still riddled with
bullet holes, electricity cables lay twisted on the pavement
and there was no running water. But Uganda has been politically
stable since the late 1980's. Thanks to a democratically
elected government and massive investment, the infrastructure
is back on track. It is once more a safe and easy country to
travel through. Kampala is now a clean and modern city though
it still retains an air of African street life - just go to
the mind-boggling minibus taxi stand or the city market! There
is greater protection for its unique wildlife - the country's wonderful natural heritage is safeguarded in 20 national parks
and reserves - and animal numbers are steadily increasing.
The Ugandan people are some of the most warm, welcoming, and
friendly you will find anywhere in Africa. The population
is put at around 25 million divided into 52 different ethnic
groups. When driving through Uganda’s countryside, you will
be bombarded by waving kids yelling “Hello teacher” (the first
words of English they learn) and in the markets every trader
wants to stop and chat. The overriding impression is of happy
people who surprisingly hold no bitterness about their past,
only bright hope for the future.
Uganda is a fabulous place to drive through overland and it’s
the best way to get around. The scenery is lush, moist, and
incredibly green, with well-watered fertile hills and valleys.
Every fruit and vegetable known to man grows here and it’s
the only African country that can sustain a surplus of food.
The hillsides and plantations are terraced ‘Bali-style’ and
all over the countryside subsistence farmers till their land
and cart off piles of green bananas, mangoes, and pineapples
to market to trade. A Ugandan market has got to be one of
the most colourful places in Africa. 17% of Uganda is covered
by water – rivers, waterfalls, the regally named lakes of
Victoria, Edward and Albert, and a number of smaller ones,
including the spectacular irregularly shaped Lake Bunyonyi
- a famous beauty spot in the hills around Kibale and a stunning
place for canoeing along the borders of neighbouring Rwanda.
The national parks and game reserves are a showcase of Uganda’s
diverse scenic splendour. They harbour ancient forests, craggy
forbidding mountains, volcanic crater lakes and some
very special animals. Without doubt, the biggest attraction is the
rare privilege of trekking into the forest to watch a family
of mountain gorillas in one of their last natural habitats.
Gorilla Travel and tracking is on offer in Bwindi National Park, another
World Heritage Site near Kabale, and on the slopes of the Virunga
Volcanoes at Mgahinga National Park near Kisoro. An hour’s
audience is permitted with each habituated family and it often
takes several hours to track them down. It’s worth it though,
as to look a massive silverback directly in the eye is
indubitably one of the most special wildlife encounters on
earth. Chimpanzees can be tracked in Kibale Forest or visited
on Ngamba Island in Lake Victoria’s Sese Islands - a home for
orphaned and rescued chimps. Uganda’s list of adventure activities
is steadily growing. There’s grade five white water rafting
on the Nile, challenging glacier climbs in the Rwenzoris and
even bungi jumping or quad biking in the forests around Jinja.
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What
is Uganda's history?
At the time of the first European exploration of what we know
as Uganda, three main kingdoms existed - Buganda, Kitara,
and Karagwe. Each was ruled by a king with separate laws and
customs. These are thought to have their origins back in the 16th
century and the land before this time was probably occupied
by bushmen and pygmies (the latter are still living in remote
forest regions of Uganda). The first Europeans to visit Uganda
were German missionaries in 1849, who sent reports back to
Europe of ‘great lakes and snowy mountains'. Then in 1862,
the explorer John Speke found the source of the Nile at Ripon
Falls near present day Jinja. The British colonialists were
next to arrive, and made Uganda their own in 1893 - hence
the very English names of Uganda’s lakes and national parks.
Uganda achieved independence from Britain in 1962, and for
a moment it was thought to have the best prospects for
prosperity of any of the newly independent African states.
In particular, the country's national parks had abundant game
in lush mountain settings, and animal numbers were higher
than in Kenya, Tanzania or South Africa. But it wasn’t long -
thanks to a series of inept and despotic regimes - before things
started to go seriously wrong for Uganda.
The first of the dictators was President Milton Obote. He banned
opposition parties in 1969, and rewrote the constitution putting
all the power in his own hands. Next up was the infamous
Idi Amin. He overthrew Obote in a 1971 coup and made himself
President of Uganda, King of Scotland, and Master of all the
Fishes in the Sea (his inaugural speech was that of a man
with a warped mind). A former sergeant in the British colonial
army, the insane Amin directed a reign of terror for eight years,
during which 300 000 opponents of his dictatorship were murdered,
many more were tortured, and society collapsed. He hit on
the educated classes - dragging them out of their classrooms
and offices to be shot - blaming them for spreading the word
of dissent to the uneducated man on the street. Next to be targeted was
the 70 000-strong Asian community, mostly traders and business
people. In 1972 they were ordered out of the country with nothing
but the clothes on their backs. Blatantly using them as a scapegoat
for the troubled economy, Amin grabbed the US$1000 million
in cash and assets they were forced to leave behind. He then
threw out the British companies with interests in tea
plantations and other industries, and once again squandered the US$500
million they left behind in investments.
Uganda was governed
by a tyrannical, inept leader, dressed in shades and a combat
outfit, protected by a pet security force of armed and financially
rewarded henchmen. Anybody who challenged him was killed
or thrown into jail. His wayward armies managed to destroy
most of the animals in Uganda’s unprotected national parks.
Then in 1978 Amin’s insanity reached fever pitch when he
decided to invade Tanzania. But he severely underestimated
the force of the Tanzanian army, who joined forces with Ugandan
nationalists and quickly turned around and counter-invaded
Uganda. Amin was finally ousted and fled to Libya in 1979.
A few years later, Gaddafi threw him out after a quarrel, and
he died in Jeddah in Saudi Arabia in 2003. Few Ugandans mourned
his death.
Obote subsequently returned to office but soon found himself
fighting guerrilla groups: the remnants of Amin’s
army and Yoweri Museveni’s National Resistance Army. A
civil war broke out between the various movements and
ethnic groups that claimed another 100 000 lives. Conflict
dragged on until 1986, when the National Resistance Army
finally took control and Yoweri Museveni was sworn in
as president. Museveni is now in his third term of office
- won legitimately through democratic elections - and peace
and stability have returned to Uganda. The economy has
grown steadily, foreign investment has increased and many
Asian Ugandans have returned to reclaim their businesses.
Though the majority of Ugandans still live in poverty,
and the Aids epidemic has struck hard in Uganda, the country
remains in considerably better shape than its war-torn
neighbours, even after the horror years of Amin and his successors.
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What
does Uganda look like?
Uganda covers about a quarter of a million square kms of East
Africa. It’s a landlocked country, firmly barred from the
sea by Sudan to the north, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic
of the Congo (DRC) to the west, Tanzania to the south, and
Kenya to the east. Uganda sits astride the equator (you can
swim over it in Lake Victoria!) and is a lush and fertile
country with a remarkably diverse landscape.
The central areas are covered with a highish plateau at an
average of 900-1000 metres above the not-so-near sea level,
dotted with small, rounded, richly fertile hills. It is also
surrounded by some pretty big mountains, notably Mount Elgon
on the border with Kenya, Mount Moroto in the North East,
the Virunga Volcanoes to the extreme south-west on the border
with the DRC and Rwanda, and the south-western Rwenzori
Mountains on the border with the DRC. The latter are commonly
dubbed the ‘Mountains of the Moon’ for their eerie, glacier-tipped
crags and giant vegetation. All the Rwenzoris are over 2 000
metres high. Mount Margherita at 5 109 metres is
Africa’s third tallest mountain. Uganda is a well-watered
country with close to 17% or 51 000 square kilometres of land
dedicated to swamp or open water. Uganda shares the shores
of East Africa’s great lakes - Lake Victoria (the largest
freshwater lake in Africa and second biggest in the world) and lakes Edward,and Albert. All are home to hundreds
of thousands of hippo.
The Victoria Nile flows through much of the country and forms
a sizeable delta on its route between lakes Victoria and Edward.
Another distinctively different landscape is the dense tropical
rainforests on the slopes of the Virungas and at Bwindi that
support an abundant bird life, and one of the last remaining
populations of mountain gorilla. The diet of the mountain
gorilla is unique; these are two of the very few regions in the
world (the other two populations are over the border in
Rwanda and the DRC) that grow the right combination of
gorilla foodstuff to keep them alive. |
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What
is Uganda's weather like?
Uganda has a moderate tropical climate and receives abundant
rainfall. It’s rich in fertile land, a major determining factor
in settlement of the region. Average rainfall is about 1 200
mm, most falling during the two wet seasons of March to May,
and October to November when it gets moderately humid. At
other times of the year skies are clear and sunny with the
odd afternoon thunderstorm. Temperatures range from 17-35°C all year round - never too hot, never
too cold!
What
do the people speak?
There are a number of local languages but most people
in Uganda, as in all East Africa, speak Swahili and English.
Here are a few Swahili words so you can say hello and at
least get a cold drink. A little Swahili goes a long way in
Uganda and most Ugandans will be thrilled to hear visitors
attempt to use it. Since the language was originally written
down by the British colonists things sound just like they
look.
• Hello - Jambo! • How are you? - Habari?
• OK/fine - Sawa sawa • Very well – Mzuri Sana
• Friend – Rafiki • And you? – Na wewe? • Where
are you from? – Unatoka wapi? • I’m from – Natoka
• Yes - Ndiyo (try to skip the 'N') • No - Hapana
• Good - Mzuri (To say 'very good' you add 'sana' - 'mzuri
sana') • Bad - Mbaya - (again, 'very bad' would be 'mbaya
sana') • Please - Tafadali • Thank you (very much)
- Asante (sana) • Goodbye - kwaheri • How much?
- Pesa Ngapi? • No problem - Hakuna matata • Where
is the bathroom? - Iko wapi choo? (where = wapi) • Water
- Maji • Ice - Barafu • Hot - Moto • Cold -
Baridi ('Nataka beera baridi sana' - ' I want a cold beer')
• Tea - Chai • Coffee - Kahawa • Milk - Maziwa
• Meat - Nyama ('Nyama choma' is cooked meat) •
Beer - Bia or beera • I don’t speak Swahili but… - Sisemi
Kiswahili, lakini
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START & FINISH
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Kampala, capital of Uganda and the entry point en route to other Ugandan destinations and national parks. |
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