Influenced by news of political unrest in Zimbabwe, potential
travellers believe that a visit to the country is not viable.
The reality is quite different. Zimbabwe’s national
parks are completely safe to visit as they are far from the
cities where instability has occurred. is Victoria Falls
is not near any farmland or trouble spots either. Ordinary Zimbabweans
are desperate for a revival in the tourism industry to bring
much needed foreign income into the country and create jobs.
Zimbabwe has a generous sample of the Africa that many people
hope to see - exotic scenery, interesting cultures and game
parks full of animals. The Victoria Falls are the principal
attraction. The mighty Zambezi spills dramatically into the
Bakota Gorge where there are endless ways to experience
the river. The energy and power of almost two kilometres of water
crashing into the gorge 100 metres below is a spectacular
sight. It is best appreciated from the spray drenched rainforest
of the Victoria Falls National Park. White water rafting and
riverboarding are the best ways to get wet and wild in the
world-renowned grade five rapids, and every day people hurl
themselves down the foamy river. Bungi jump 111 meters off
the Victoria Falls railway bridge, ride a flying fox or abseil
into the gorge.
You could also take a scenic flight by helicopter, micro light or an impossibly small plane through the ‘smoke’
that still proudly thunders. Above the falls it is just as
enticing, with an array of game and palm-dotted islands. Sunset cruises and canoeing on the upper Zambezi brings you
amongst the hippos and crocodiles. You can take an elephant
ride, walking safari or horse trail in the surrounding national
parks and wilderness areas. You will not fail to get a hefty
boost of adrenaline pumping through your veins after visiting
this town, probably the biggest adrenaline capital outside
Queenstown, New Zealand.
Zimbabwe is also the location of the oldest stone structure
south of the Sahara. Africa’s largest ancient stone
monument after the pyramids is Great Zimbabwe, from which
the nation takes its name. Situated in Masvingo, the Zim
ruins, as they are familiarly called, are a World heritage
site and are a testimony to the fact that this region has
long been inhabited by ancient civilisations. It’s
an unfathomable ruin nearly 1 000 years old and was once
home to 10 000 ancestors of the Shona people.
Formerly Salisbury, the capital Harare is Zimbabwe’s
commercial and industrial centre and the location of the
international airport, though flights from South Africa
also arrive at Victoria Falls. There’s nothing much
to keep you in Harare for long. Bulawayo, Zimbabwe’s
second city, is home to some interesting museums and is close
to Matopo National Park, which has one of the best-protected
populations of black rhino in southern Africa. Piles of
balancing granite rocks conceal ancient rock paintings and
the grave of Cecil John Rhodes.
More than 11% of Zimbabwe’s land has been set aside
as parks and game reserves. Safari options are limitless
and you are not confined to the back of a Land Rover. There
are walking, horseback, canoeing and even elephantback
safaris. Hwange National Park covers the eastern-most edge
of the Kalahari and is Zimbabwe’s largest park. It is home to a staggering amount of elephants, which migrate to neighbouring
Chobe National Park in Botswana. Experience another aspect
of the Zambezi on Lake Kariba, where the Kariba dam has
halted the course of the river and formed a lake with over
2 000 kilometres of isolated uncluttered shorelines, guarded
by enormous numbers of game and best enjoyed from the
sunny decks of a houseboat. Tiger fishing here is ranked as some
of the best in the world, but beware snagging a croc
by mistake! Trekking for lion in the Matusadona National
Park completes an all-round safari experience. At Mana Pools,
explore the river by tranquil multi-day canoe safaris and
camp out in the bush.
Currently, Zimbabwe is in a state of turmoil. Zimbabwe gained
independence in 1980, and Robert Mugabe rose through the
ranks to president. The 80s and 90s have seen troubled times
with Mugabe chasing his ideal of a one-party-state at the
cost of thousands of lives and economic collapse.
The 2002 elections were rigged, and the intrigue and intimidation
resulted in Zimbabwe’s exclusion from the
commonwealth. The question of land redistribution remains
a focal point. Meanwhile, the country is facing the prospect
of famine due to an ongoing drought and infrastructure problems.
But Zimbabwe’s political vulnerability does not affect
the traveller, and ordinary people very much welcome travellers -
and their tourist dollars - to their country.
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Zimbabwe has been populated since the Stone Age. The ruins
of Great Zimbabwe, dating back to the ancient African kingdom
of Munhumatapa, testify to the advanced level of civilization
that existed before the Europeans even got there. Zimbabwe
has long been home to the Shona who today make up about 80%
of the population. In the 1830s, the region was thrown into
upheaval by the northward migration of Ndebele people from
South Africa who enslaved the indigenous Shona people until
the end of the century. The British arrived in 1888, headed
by Cecil Rhodes who controlled the British South Africa Company.
He had it in mind that all the land from the Cape to Cairo
should belong to the British. While his great railroad through
Africa failed, he did colonise this region as Rhodesia. Colonial
activities were stronger here than in other African countries.
British mission houses and schools forced their values upon
the African people, and African customs - even music - were
banned.
The country's road to independence was long and rocky. It
became Southern Rhodesia in 1923, and in 1953 it joined with
Northern Rhodesia (now Zambia) and Nyasaland (now Malawi)
to form the Central African Federation. A nationalist movement
emerged to protest against the new federation. At the forefront
was the Zimbabwe African People's Union (ZAPU), mostly Ndebele,
led by Joshua Nkomo. It was shortly joined by the Zimbabwe
African National Union (ZANU), mostly Shona, led by Ndabaningi
Sithole.
After the collapse of the federation in 1963, both
ZAPU and ZANU were banned, and the majority of their leaders
imprisoned. Relations between the white minority government
led by Ian Smith and Britain soured over the government's
treatment of black citizens. Under increasing pressure to
change its ways, the white government, declared independence
from Britain in 1965 and UN sanctions against Rhodesia followed
in 1968. Both ZAPU and ZANU began campaigns of guerrilla warfare
from their bases in Zambia and Mozambique. By 1972 it had
become a fully-fledged civil war. The coming of independence
in Angola and Mozambique in 1975 put more pressure on Smith
to accept majority rule. He eventually conceded and released
the imprisoned nationalist leaders. Talks led to an agreement
known as the Internal Settlement. Finally, in 1979 under the
Lancaster House agreement, its legal status as the British
colony of Southern Rhodesia was restored in preparation for
free elections and independence as Zimbabwe. Elections were
held with 53 out of the 80 seats going to ZANU black leaders.
Robert Mugabe became president, and the capital Salisbury
was renamed Harare. Zimbabwe was the last African country
to become independent in 1980 in a ceremony attended by Britain's
Prince Charles and Bob Marley who wrote and performed a special
song entitled ‘Zimbabwe’.
However, the independent government has been far from successful.
Almost immediately there was bitter rivalry between ZAPU and
ZANU, and from 1982 to 1983, the North Korean-trained Fifth
Brigade, composed mostly of Shona, was sent by the government
to Matabeleland where they massacred between 2 000 and 8 000
Ndebele civilians. No one has ever been prosecuted for these
massacres, and commanders who perpetrated them are now at
high levels of the Zimbabwe armed forces. Nkomo (ZAPU) left
for exile in Britain, but returned in 1988 when talks led
to the merger of the two rival parties as ZANU-PF.
From the
early 1990s, Mugabe has moved to increase his grip on power
and eliminate any political opposition. He doesn’t think
twice about throwing political opponents or journalists who
criticize him into prison. He has constantly tried to change
the constitution so it protects his position and insists that
it is the British, who did not fulfil their independence promises,
that are the root of all evil in Zimbabwe. His government
has been riddled with economic mismanagement and growing corruption. Along with all this there is the forced and violent removal
of white farmers in a brutal land redistribution programme,
which led to the destruction of much of Zimbabwe's agricultural
base. Over 100 000 farmers, farm workers and their families
lost their homes and jobs. Mugabe has earned widespread
scorn from the international community.
It was only a matter of time before organised opposition
re-emerged. At the beginning of 1999, the Movement for Democratic
Change (MDC) was formed, led by Morgan Tsvangirai, which
pitted itself against ZANU-PF in the 2002 elections. Surprisingly,
ZANU-PF won the controversial election. However, it was considered
far from free and fair and it is alleged that violence and
intimidation were used in anti-Mugabe strongholds to prevent
citizens from voting. Morgan Tsvangirai, at the time of
writing, is on trial for treason for an alleged and almost
certainly fabricated plot to assassinate Mugabe. In 2002,
as a result of its claimed human rights abuses and election
rigging, Zimbabwe was temporarily suspended from the Commonwealth
of Nations. Mugabe retaliated by withdrawing his country
from the Commonwealth altogether. At 77, Mugabe has few
years left and his demise is sure to be the catalyst for change
in Zimbabwe. Predictably, the conflict has caused economic
havoc: fuel shortages, rampant inflation, and an increase
in crime, especially around Harare, the capital. But these
incidents are not directed towards tourists: quite the contrary -
the ordinary people of Zimbabwe are desperate for the tourism
industry to reignite, to fuel the economy and create
jobs.
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Zimbabwe is a land-locked country in southern Africa, bordered
by Zambia to the northwest, Mozambique to the northeast, South
Africa to the south and Botswana to the southwest. With a
total area of 390 310 sq km, the country falls into three
geographical zones: the highveld, the lowveld and the Eastern
Highlands. The central highveld region is dotted with small
hills and kopjes (massive granite outcrops) and is the location
of the two main cities, Harare and Bulawayo. The hills give
rise to many rivers, which drain into the man-made Lake Kariba
to the northwest, the marshes of Botswana to the west or into
the Zambezi River to the northeast. The lowveld has the Limpopo
valley in the south and the Zambezi valley in the north. Both
are semi-arid bush where it gets extremely hot in summer.
The Eastern Highlands border Mozambique and include the richly
fertile Chimanimani and Inyanga mountain ranges, where the
misty green hills are of great scenic beauty. Zimbabwe offers
some of the best wildlife parks in southern Africa, notably
Hwange, which is famous for its large amount of elephant, and
Matopos, home to Cecil John Rhodes's grave and considerable numbers
of rhino. |
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The hot dry season is from September to October, and the
rainy season from November to March. The weather is at its
best between April and May but the grass is also at its highest
then, hampering game viewing in the parks, and the Victoria
Falls are obscured by heavy spray. August to September is
probably the best time to visit - before it gets too hot at
Victoria Falls and in the Zambezi Valley. The falls
themselves are at their lowest then, which is great for rafting but
not good for views. Night-time temperatures can fall below
freezing in June and July around Harare and most people are
surprised at how cold some parts of Zimbabwe get.
Shona is the official language of Zimbabwe, along with Ndebele
and English, and it’s spoken by more than 80% of Zimbabwe's
population. Shona is also spoken by a substantial part of
Mozambique, and some people speak it in Zambia and Botswana.
Pronunciation is pretty much how it’s written down.
Greetings are very important in Shona society. If you learn
a couple, Zimbabweans will be most impressed.
• Hi there - Kanjan
• How are you – Mhoro
• I’m fine - ndiripo
• Greetings – Tikukwaziwai (said respectably to
an older person)
• Friend, mate, pal – Shamwari (used a lot)
• Good morning – Mangwanani
• Good afternoon – Masikati
• Good night - Tonana mangwana (we’ll see each
other tommorrow)
• Go well (said by person staying) - Fambai zvakanaka
• Stay well (said by person going) - Sarai zvakanaka
• Thank you – Tatenda (there isn’t really
a word for please)
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START & FINISH
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Victoria Falls, the entry
point en route to other Zimbabwe destinations and national parks. |
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