Botswana is a largely roadless country full of savannahs,
wetlands, deserts and wide open spaces that cry out for exploration.
It’s one of the few places in Africa where the wilderness
areas have remained completely unspoiled and is an ideal destination
for nature lovers. With a population of only 1.5 million in
a country roughly the same size of France, very little has
seen human habitation and there are very few urban areas.
Gaborone, Francistown and Maun are the only towns with sizeable
populations. This is true Africa in her remote natural state.
Recognising this fact, Botswana’s government has designated
17% of the country as national parks, with a further 20% as
protected wilderness areas. The government has also taken
a deliberate high-cost low-volume approach to tourism to maintain
the country’s natural assets at their most pristine
state. It means Botswana’s safari experiences don’t
come cheap but this ecotourism policy has resulted in visitors
being able to experience Africa at its most natural and stunningly
beautiful, and nowhere will you find yourself in a crowd of
camera-wielding tourists.
Over two thirds of Botswana is covered by the mighty Kalahari
Desert - sandy, flat scrub and thorn trees that are shared,
not always harmoniously, between wildlife and cattle. Botswana’s
most remarkable feature is the Okavango Delta, a wonderful
wetland within this desert fed by water from the Angolan highlands.
In a doomed attempt to reach the sea, the Okavango River spills
hopefully from the east to falter and die on the hot sands
of the Kalahari. It forms the world’s largest inland
delta, a 15 000 sq km maze of lagoons, secret waterways and
palm-dotted islands scattered with game. Here, sunny days
are filled with the sounds of birds calling, hippo grunting,
and antelope rustling in the reeds. Nights are ruled by unseen
predators. The unspoiled and unpolluted Okavango is southern
Africa’s premier wilderness destination. It's a must
when you are in Botswana to go into the delta to spend some
time with nature. The delta is a great place for walking safaris,
floating through the peaceful channels in a relaxing canoe,
or even flying over the lush water meadows by small plane.
On the eastern side of the delta lies the Moremi Wildlife
Reserve where large areas of dry land are interspersed between
the wetlands. Here you can experience excellent savannah game
viewing as well as bird-watching on the lagoons.
But there’s more to Botswana than the delta. In the
northwest is the dynamic Chobe National Park, home to an estimated
120 000 elephant - the largest population in Africa. The Chobe
River, near the border town of Kasane, is the best place to
see the elephant drink their fill from a boat cruise. There’s
nothing more endearing than watching a baby elephant take
a bath. The park has an amazing variety of habitats, ranging
from floodplains and acacia woodlands, to verdant flood grasslands
and thickets bordering the river and supporting large concentrations
of game. Venture further into the park by 4x4 to hunt for
vast herds of buffalo, zebra and antelope, constantly stalked
by predators.
It's not just Botswana's tourist policy that makes it unique
amongst African nations. Botswana is one of the richest countries
in Africa, thanks to its abundance of diamonds. You’ll
find an excellent working infrastructure and very high standards
of accommodation and service. The people are warm and friendly,
and as the country has had no wars, military coups, or uprisings,
the Batswana are peace-loving and non-aggressive. Botswana
has the continent's longest and most stable democracy. People
of different cultures and religions live peacefully side by
side. But perhaps this is not so tricky given its large area
(60 000 sq km) and tiny population (1.5 million). There’s
only an average of three people per sq km: cattle and donkeys
way outnumber people in Botswana! |
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The first people to inhabit the empty Kalahari some 30 000
years ago were the San – also known as the Bushmen.
They number only about 55 000 today, constituting a small
but fascinating cultural minority in the country. From the
15th century the Tswana people arrived, collectively called
the Batswana (the word today refers to anyone living in Botswana).
By the 18th century, these people had established a powerful
highly structured society of towns ruled by monarchs who controlled
hunting, cattle-breeding and copper mining. The European Christian
missionaries who pitched up in the early 1800s were most impressed
with the orderliness and structure of the town-based Batswana
people.
The Zulu wars of the early 1800s in what is now South Africa
produced a wave of northbound migration into Botswana land.
Meanwhile, the Boers began their Great Trek over the Vaal,
crossing into Botswana and attempting to impose white rule
on the inhabitants. By 1877, animosity had escalated to such
a level that the British stepped in and the first Boer War
erupted in the Transvaal. The Boers retreated further into
Botswana in 1882, prompting the Batswana leaders to ask for
British protection. The British agreed and drew up borders.
In 1885 they declared the northern territory as a British
protectorate known as Bechuanaland, today’s Botswana.
The southern territory became part of the Cape Colony and
is now part of the Northwest Province of South Africa. The
majority of Setswana-speaking people today live in South Africa.
Bechuanaland was eventually brought under full British colonial
control in 1890, when the British South Africa Company was
established to supervise the whole region. Later in 1909 Bechuanaland,
along with Lesotho and Swaziland, declined to become included
in the Union of South Africa.
Nationalism built during the 1950s and 1960s, and as early
as 1955 it had become apparent that Britain was preparing
to release its grip. Following South Africa’s Sharpeville
Massacre of 1960, the Bechuanaland People's Party (BPP) was
formed with independence as its aim. Despite Bechuanaland
being dependent on South Africa for food imports and on the
wages of Botswana miners working in South Africa for income,
the BPP opposed apartheid as well as the Smith regime in neighbouring
Rhodesia. In 1964, Britain accepted the BPP’s proposals
for the independent democratic self-government of the newly-named
Botswana, the seat of government was moved from Mafikeng in
South Africa to the new capital of Gaborone in 1965, and independence
was achieved by 1966. Seretse Khama was the first president
who was subsequently re-elected until he died in office in
1980. He was succeeded by Ketumile Masire who was president
from 1980-1998, and the current president is Festus Mogae.
Botswana was economically transformed by the discovery of
diamonds in 1967 - the diamond mines of Orapa, Letlhakane,
and Jwaneng together make up one of the largest reserves of
diamonds in the world. This mineral wealth has provided the
country with enormous foreign currency reserves, pushing the
pula to its position as one of Africa's strongest currencies.
Botswana has always been a peaceful and safe country, and
the vast majority of travellers to Botswana have nothing but
praise for it.
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Botswana is situated to the north of South Africa and is bordered
to the west by Namibia, and to the east by Zimbabwe. It is
connected by Namibia’s skinny Caprivi Strip to Zambia
on its northern border. Here, at Kazungula, all four countries
meet at a single point mid-stream in the Zambezi River.
At 581 730 sq km, Botswana is about the same size as Kenya
but the comparison stops there. Botswana is almost entirely
flat except for some very small hills along the Limpopo Valley
in the east. The mighty Kalahari Desert covers 84% of the
country, as well as substantial parts of South Africa, Namibia
and Angola. The Kalahari thirstland, as it was described by
early explorers, is a semi desert of grass and acacia thorn
scrub, though it does contain adequate vegetation to support
numerous herds of wild animals. It’s only in the southwest
where there are sand dunes that true desert conditions prevail.
National parks cover 17% of Botswana and in the northwest,
the Okavango River empties into the Kalahari sands creating
the largest inland river delta in the world.
The 15 000 sq km Okavango Delta is almost the same size as
Israel. From its source in Angola, the Okavango flows to its
termination in the flat, marshy Okavango swamps of water channels,
lagoons, and islands. Compared to other parks, it’s
home to relatively few large animals but its clear waters,
small islands and stark isolation create a wonderful African
wilderness. Nearby is Chobe National Park, a beautiful grassland
reserve that has gained fame for its abundant elephant population.
They are fed by one of Botswana’s only forests along
the banks of the Chobe River. With the exceptions of the Chobe,
Okavango and Limpopo rivers, the country has little permanent
surface water.
About 80% of the country's population lives on the eastern
borders, concentrated around the largest cities of Gaborone
and Francistown. Neither are very large (or terribly exciting)
thanks to a country-wide population of only 1.5 million. |
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Botswana is mostly hot and very dry with an annual rainfall
of only 200-400mm. Most of the rain, not that there's much,
falls during the summer from November to March, when it’s
very hot with temperatures reaching 30-40°C. The rain
tends to be erratic and unpredictable. Often a heavy downpour
may occur in one area while 10km or 15km away there is no
rain at all. Thunderstorms are followed by strong sunshine
so that a good deal of the rain does not penetrate the ground
but is lost to evaporation. Pula is not only the name of Botswana's
currency, but also the Setswana word for rain. Much of what
takes place in Botswana relies on this valuable commodity.
Winter is from late May to August and brings bone-dry, warm
days with clear, sunny skies. Nights can be freezing with
occasional overnight frosts. In autumn, September-October,
it still tends to be dry, but the days are cooler than in
summer and the nights are warmer than in winter. This is perhaps
the best time to travel to Botswana. From then and on through
winter, the wildlife gathers around what water there is and
are at their most visible.
Whilst English is largely understood, Setswana is Botswana’s
national language with minor differences in dialects. Not
only is it Botswana’s principle language, but there
are Setswana speakers all over southern Africa including 3.5
million people in South Africa who use it as their home language.
When travelling in Botswana, knowing and using the odd word
in Setswana always helps, and people will be pleased that
you have made the effort.
• Hello (to woman/man) - Dumela mma/rra
• How are you? – Le Kae? O tsogile jang?
• OK/fine - Go siame
• Yes - Ee
• No - Nnya
• Please - Tsweetswee
• Thank you – Ke itumetse
• Goodbye – Tsamaya sentle (go well) / Sala sentle
(stay well)
• No problem – Ga gona mathata
• How much is this? – Ke bo kae?
• I don’t have any money – Ga ke na madi
• I want some water – Ke natla metsi
• I speak Setswana just a little… - Ke bua Setswana
go le gonnye fela
• Internet café - Khefi ya Inthanete
And finally, if you really want to impress a Setswana speaker,
try…
• Do you accept (money/credit cards/traveller's cheques)?
- A lo amogela (madi/dikarata tsa molato/ditšheke tsa
bajanata)?
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START & FINISH
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Maun, tourism capital of Botswana
and the entry point en route to other Botswana destinations and national
parks. |
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