Lamu is one of Africa’s
best kept secrets. It is a tiny, exquisite island surrounded by mangroves
on the northern Kenyan coast where little has changed since the 18th
century. Even the airport on a neighbouring uninhabited island is
delightful - luggage is transported by handcart and the airport lounge
is an antique couch beneath the shade of a bougainvillea tree. The
only item that makes it vaguely resemble an airport is a set of rusty
luggage scales! Dhows transfer you from the airport to Lamu town,
the only Swahili town to retain its original character and the oldest
settlement in East Africa. The town has its roots from the 1300s,
when Arab merchants plied their trade on ocean-going sailing dhows
weighing up to 300 tons. From the 15th century, wealthy families from
Oman and the Gulf States built elaborate houses and mosques, and artisans
produced exquisite gold and silver weapons and jewellery and intricate
furniture inlaid with tortoiseshell and ivory. But by the end of the
19th century, Lamu fell into economic decline and obscurity due to
its remoteness and lack of transport links with the rest of Africa.
Nothing much has happened since and it’s as if Lamu has been
stuck in a time warp.
The town is dominated by a narrow waterfront, every inch of which
is occupied by dhows with billowing sails and sailors with kikois
hoisted around their waists. The narrow streets where you can shake
hands with your neighbour in the house opposite, and where coconuts,
spices and sweet potatoes are sold from doorways, has some of the
most elegant architecture on the continent. There are a few beautifully
restored hotels with intricately carved ebony doors, stuffed full
of antiques and the famous four-poster Lamu beds. There’s
only one car on the island - the District Commissioner's battered
Land Rover, and as there are no roads, it’s a mystery where
he drives! Apart from the dhows, the most common form of transport
is donkey. There are some 4 000 on the island who nod off in
doorways and casually wander the alleyways; carry a torch at night
to see where you’re stepping!
Without the sounds of traffic, the atmosphere is soothing and the
people very friendly. The few sights include the 19th century fort
and an excellent museum housed in one of the oldest houses on the
island. A third of Lamu is covered by sand dunes, and one of the
best beaches in Kenya stretches 12km from Shela village - a tiny
duplicate of Lamu town 10 minutes away by dhow (or if you’re
up to it, by donkey). A visit to Lamu is a memorable experience; it’s
part of a much older Africa where people want to hang on to their
culture for as long as possible.
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