Another rough road takes
you from Stone Town to the beaches on the eastern side of Zanzibar
centred around Jambiani, Paje and Bwejuu.
An extensive coral reef runs down the whole east coast of the island,
protecting a long, idyllic white sandy beach that runs for miles and
is one of the Africa’s most beautiful beaches. The only problem
here is that the ocean is tidal, and during some parts of the day it’s
a very long walk over the tidal flats to reach the sea.
The villages are linked by a rocky high street that stretches right
up the coast, fringed with shady palms. The local people live
a peaceful existence making a living from farming seaweed or octopus
fishing.
It’s quieter here than at the north coast, with fewer rowdy bars,
and there’s an abundance of peaceful beach cottages to choose
from. Facilities are very basic, so just keep looking until you
find something that suits.
This is the place to eat fresh fish and seafood, and the best way
to sample traditional Zanzibar cooking is to visit a local family’s
home for dinner. You provide the fish, and for a couple of US$ the
family will cook and share a meal with you.
About two hours walk from Jambiani is a large cave containing a freshwater
spring that was thought to have once been used to keep slaves in.
It’s also a traditional shrine and local people come here to
pray and make offerings.
At Bwejuu the beach cottages are close to the Chwaka Bay mangrove
swamps and a lagoon that offers superb snorkelling for crabs, starfish
and sea-cucumbers. Just keep your fins on, as it’s a breeding
ground for potentially painful sea urchins and stone fish.
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